“It’s supposed to be hard”……

Millennium Camp – 28^th February

Reaching the Hans Meyer cave brought with it a very welcome break and because we had delayed our start we were treated to possibly the most majestic sunrise yet with the jagged edges of Mawenzi in the background and the sharp yet barren slope we had just climbed beneath us.

 After hours walking in the dark, the first hint of light.

Doing my rounds having a few words with everyone (hard to manage much more in the thin air), I noticed Nerissa crouched with a nearby guide offering a supportive arm.

As I approached it was evident that she was in a bit of a state and there were tears streaming down her face as she looked at me, “It’s too hard” were the words I could barely hear above the wind.

My response was typically sympathetic and understanding, “Of course it’s hard, it’s supposed to be hard which is exactly why we’re here!”

My extended hand was gratefully grasped as we pulled Nerissa back to her feeand the Kids Co train was on the move again.

 Sunrise behind Mawenzi.

The next half hour was a nightmare as we cycled through cajoling, ordering and at times simply pushing Nerrisa up the slope until her desperation and thoughts of quitting gave way to those of resignation and submissive compliance allowing us to settle once more into a weary trudge.

“As the bird flies” the ascent from Hens Mayer Cave to Gilmans point covers little over a kilometre but a relentless series of zig zags/switchbacks across the scree slope means that the distance covered is closer to 3.5km.

We watched the rest of the group stretch out across the slope as the guide and I tried to coax Nerissa through each leg.

Desperately we searched for a pace that would ensure we could make it to the next turn before having to rest until eventually our rhythm improved and we began to catch up.

 Laura & Mish in their Hi Vis gear (courtesy of a star sponsor) 

at the Hans Meyer Cave

Far ahead I could make out the lead group from the Kids Company, tantalisingly close to reaching Gilmans Point and the end of this brutal climb.

Willing them to make it, if for no other reason than to prove it was possible I watched with increasing horror as over the next hour I kept looking up expecting to see that they had disappeared from view but instead discovering they had simply reversed direction as the ticked off another switchback.

The reason for this soon became clear as the sign heralding Gillmans Point came into view the track (?!) steepened, the height of the steps increased and the real work began.

If the previous four hours had seemed tough it was nothing compared to what lay ahead over the next sixty minutes.

In the rarefied air our lungs gasped for any oxygen that was available as our already slow progress ground to a near halt and for the first time I found myself entertaining the notion of failure.

 Looking back down the path we'd walked up

(I'd long given up looking at what lay ahead)

I wondered whether I had the strength, the courage and the heart to go on and as I fought against the unnatural tempo of Nerissas stop/start pace I wondered if my decision to help her may prove my undoing.

Drawing deep into my reserves I recalled my own advice and focussed on the text message I wanted to send Claire and focussed entirely on the usually simple act of planting one foot in front of the other.

Just as I was reaching the point of exasperation I stepped up and felt a biting increase in the wind chill cutting into my face.

Having long given up looking up to what lay ahead I raised my eyes and there was the sign congratulating us on reaching Gillmans Point and better still were the smiling, celebratory faces of our team mates.

Sleepwalking……

Millennium Camp – 28^th February

It started with a rattle of our tent, it was and a quick check confirmed that there was no sign of the storm, it was 2am and our attempt at Uhuru peak, the summit of Kilimanjaro, was ON!

Complete chaos ensued, despite having prepped all our kit before going to bed there were people and rucksacks everywhere and by the time I had fought my way to the mess tent there was precious little of the breakfast left.

I seemed inundated by everyone asking for help with their rucksacks, gloves, even their lunches, which whilst I was happy to give I was desperate for just five minutes just for the chance to get myself sorted!

 I’d barely managed to get my gloves onto my own freezing hands when the familiar call of “Saddle Up” came from John.

Frantically rushing to get my water sorted, rucksack on and a flapjack down my neck I was just in time to join the back of the line as the person before me stepped off.

With my first moment to pause and think since waking up the reality of the situation began to sink in, after all the planning, preparation and training it was all going to come down to the next 7-8 hours.

Having failed to find it for the last few days (despite some wonderful clear skies) I looked up to the sky and just above the dark silhouette was the familiar pattern of the “Plough”.

An instant morale boost I felt the adrenaline (and panic) of the last 45 minutes subside as once again I began a summit day feeling Claire’s  hand on my shoulder and whispers of support in my ear.

Walking now as one big team the pace at times was frustratingly slow but with an idea of what was yet to come I worked hard to adapt my rhythm and enjoy the comparatively easy progress.

An hour passed and then another, between the altitude and the effort of the walking there was precious little breath left for conversation.

With just the beam of your head torch and the feet of the person in front for company it was hard to note any of the usual checkpoints.

Between the lack of stimulation and the monotony of planting one foot in front of the other it’s perhaps not surprising that tiredness began to take hold.

Gradually I felt my eyes grow heavier until eventually I’d “drift off” before I’d feel my head snap up and my eyes spring open and wonder what the hell had just happened!

I tried to fight it as best as I could, memory games, biting my lip, anything that might help keep me awake but all to no avail and by the time we reached the Hans Meyer cave my “micro sleeps” must have been into double figures!

False Start…....

Millennium Camp – 28^th February 

Needless to say the atmosphere over dinner was electric and it was somewhat grudgingly that we all made our way to our tents around 6pm to try and get some sleep.

My mind was swimming with thoughts as I lay in my sleeping bag, I had reached this point feeling stronger than I could have ever hoped for and whilst I knew I was within touching distance of achieving my dream I also knew the worst was yet to come.

Every blog, guide book and account of the summit day talks about the hellish scree slope that you have to climb to reach Gillman’s Point and over the last 18 months it had become something of a mantra for every time I wanted to quit on a run “you’re not going to quit on the scree so you’re not going to quit NOW!”.

Eventually I drifted off and whilst I slept well, it felt as though I was awake again barely minutes after my eyes had shut.

The darkness surrounding the tent confirmed that this wasn’t the case and a quick check on my watch confirmed that it had just gone 10pm.

Knowing that it would be nigh impossible to get back to sleep again feeling this excited I lay there mentally checking my kit until suddenly there was an unwelcome flash quickly followed by the menacing rumble of thunder.

The next half hour was agonising, I knew that there was no way we’d be setting off in the middle of an electrical storm and so I was left contemplating the devastating prospect of heading home having gotten this close.

At times it felt as though the storm was mocking us as it would appear to move on giving us a glimmer of hope before suddenly returning right on top of us and more violent than ever before.

It may have been foolish optimism or just a bad case of denial but I refused to believe that my Kilimanjaro dream was about to be scuppered by the weather, so at 10:45pm I started to get myself ready.

My heart refused to believe what my head knew was inevitable and I paused straining to hear John and Mweke discuss our options.

I knew what was coming as John approached our tent, the light from my headtorch having betrayed me:

“Who’s that?”

“Simon”

“Go back to bed mate, we’ll have another look at 2am”

I’m not a religious man and so I cannot describe what I did as I slumped back into my sleeping bag as praying, however what I did do was hope.  

I hoped with the very fibre of my being until it felt an almost physical act to be allowed my shot at the summit but as I drifted in to sleep the storm rolled on.

The A Team…....

Outward Bound School Hut – 27^th February 

The plan is to split the group into two teams for the summit ascent.

The first team will aim to leave around 11:00pm (TONIGHT!) with the second following approximately 45mins later.

The idea is that both will walk at a similar pace but the extra time will allow for extra breaks for team A and in theory we should all reach the summit at about the same time.

So far I’m still feeling strong and have been walking well, I’ve no doubt in my mind that tomorrow is likely to be tougher than anything I have done before (and probably than I can imagine) so I could have a lie in (?!) and go with the second group.

However, I’ve been in a really fortunate position to be able to help many of the guys in the “A Team” throughout the trek and as a result have developed a stronger bond with many of them.

I also can’t help but feel that it would be a real privilege to see some of the guys (and girls) who were struggling so badly on the first day achieve something that at times must have felt so out of reach.

And if there is some small way left in which I can help these guys to make it then that really would be something truly special and can only enrich my own journey to the top.

 The Proposed "A Team"

Nerissa, Dembi & Joe

Jas, Kate & Raj

Suzie & Yours Truly 

Let It Snow……

Outward Bound School Hut – 27^th February 

I woke up this morning to the sound of rain hammering down onto the tent, never the most encouraging start to the day but eventually I managed to coax myself from the warm comfort of my sleeping bag.

I was completely unprepared for the view that met me when I left the tent, it seems it wasn’t rain that fell last night but snow, to the extent that now almost the whole of the Kibo massif was now covered!

 Kibo the evning before.....

 and Kibo the morning after!

A distinct pattern developed in the conversation as the others began to emerge from their tents:

“Morning Raj”

“Morning Simon”

“Seen the mountain?”

“F****** Hell!!"

“Morning Nerissa”

“Morning Simon”

“Seen the mountain?"

“Oh My F******* God, are we going up that?”

And so it continued until everyone was up and the guides were convinced we were all suffering from tourettes!

In many ways it was the perfect start to the day and the excitement was tangible over breakfast as the realisation set in that with a planned 11pm start most of us would be starting our summit push…..TODAY!

We set off following the same route as our little walk the previous afternoon but we could all feel the pinch as the gradient steepened and we passed the high point of yesterday.

 Almost at yesterdays high point.

Spirits remained high within the group and, touch wood, the altitude headaches were staying away however both the groups pace (and banter) began to slow.

As we approached 4,500m John announced “Congratulations guys you’ve just reached the summit of the Matterhorn”, we summoned as much of a cheer as we could but I suspect he may have been hoping for a little more enthusiasm!

 John & Mweke no doubt discussing improtant summit strategy!

There was a slightly bigger cheer when we turned a corner and could see the camp however whilst despite it seeming almost within touching distance it still took another half hour before we could drop our packs.

Once again our porters have excelled themselves, finding one of the flattest pitches for our tent and a cracking view of Mawenzi thrown in for good measure.

 The view from our tent.

The atmosphere is happy and relaxed, everyone appears to be feeling pretty good and trying to conserve their energy for what lies ahed.

Personally I feel as though I’m walking around in a bit of a daze, the top is now tantalisingly close and after 3 and a half years I can’t quite believe that I’m here.

There’s still an awful lot of work to do and I’ve little doubt that tomorrow will be hell in places but I’ve reached this point feeling strong and well acclimatised.

The afternoon cloud rolling in (our tent in the foreground).

All I have to do now is concentrate on putting one foot in front of the other and focus on the thought of sending Claire the text message saying “Kilimanjaro……DONE!”

 One more sleep to go!

Keep On Moving…....

Third Cave Camp – 26^th February 

Everyone was a little bleary eyed this morning, given the nature of this site most of the tents had been pitched on a slope so folks spent much of the night either rolling into one another of sliding down towards the door.

Tent mate James enjoying his early morning coffee.

Fortunately I had another pretty good nights sleep.  This may be due to the fact that our porters had done an excellent job and pitched our tent on a comparatively flat spot or it may be because I had a decent tote of scotch before turning in for the night….personally I prefer the idea touted by John that I obviously have a clearer conscience than most!

 The crew getting ready to break camp.

This mornings walk was scheduled to take between 4-5 hours and with no real improvement in the weather and no change in the landscape I think the general consensus was to get our heads down and crack on with it.

 Heads down and cracking on!

Thankfully whatever may have been lacking in the weather/views was more than compensated by the spirits of the group and these were raised further when just a little over three hours we crested a ridge and were met with views of the campsite.

The welcome sight of the Third Cave Camp.

Morale was further boosted by the news that there had been a resupply that morning too, it’s remarkable just how much of a difference a can of hot chocolate can make but after several days the lack of variety was starting to tell making those little luxuries all the more important!

Again there was an afternoon excursion ascending to approx 350m higher before returning to camp.

To be honest it would have been very easy to have settled down in my tent with my book and spend the afternoon chilling out but it was an excellent chance to boost my acclimatisation and let’s face it I’m probably not going to be here again so it seemed foolish to pass it up.

As we were only going to be gone for a couple of hours I left my rucksack behind and it felt liberating to walk without the persistent tug at my shoulders.

 Making our way up to the ridge.

Motoring my way up to the top of the ridge we were rewarded with our first good views of Mawenzi, looking like Mount Doom from Lord of The Rings it is “other” peak on Kilimanjaro. 

A local Chagga legend tells how Mawenzi was always jealous of Kibo and one day having let it’s own fire burn out helped itself to some of it’s taller neighbours.

Returning to find his hot coals missing Kibo struck a crashing blow to Mawenzi rendering him forever dormant and creating the jagged formation that stands today!

Mawenzi, straight out of Mordor?

Over dinner there was an noticeable increase in everyone’s level of excitement, Kibo now feels tantalisingly close an tomorrow marks the start of our summit push with the climb to the Outward Bound School hut.

Moonwalking……

Buffalo Ridge Camp – 25^th February 

Thankfully we still have a full team as everybody who was struggling with AMS yesterday have woken up with clear enough heads to continue.

Another morning another beautiful sunrise.

Poor old Emma looks as though she has been 10 rounds with…..well, the mountain, but it really is a herculean effort after what she went through yesterday and along with an overwhelming sense of relief there is a renewed energy amongst the group.

 Mich & Coops admiring the cloud inversion over the Shira plateau.

 Although there is minimal height gain during today’s walk the first part of our walk takes us back up and past the base of Little Lent Hill so those that didn’t make the excursion yesterday afternoon left slightly earlier in order to reach the summit.

 The early risers on top of Little Lent (but only if you look REALLY closely).

 As usual it didn’t take the porters long  to catch up, overtake and disappear into the distance as we puffed our way back up to the crest of the ridge we had already climbed yesterday.  

You really do have to pause with amazement as these guys pass carrying the kind of loads that make your shoulders ache just looking at them, yet they almost always have a smile and a cheery “Jambo” as they motor past!

The porters, having caught up and overtaken us, continue on their relentless march!

Whilst initially spectacular, several hours making our way across the same featureless landscape has become, dare I say, a bit tedious.

Couple this with decent fog, denying us any of the breathtaking vistas we had enjoyed over the previous days it’s perhaps not surprising that the early morning enthusiasm had dissipated by the time we stopped for lunch.

However after lunch we began losing height and quickly found ourselves back amongst the moorland zone characterised by it’s more prolific plant life.

There were even occasions when the cloud broke long enough to afford us a glimpse across the border into Kenya a view a tiny fraction of the visitors to Kili get to see as the majority of routes shun the North side of the mountain.

 Looking into Kenya.

Having reached the traditional spot for the Buffalo Ridge camps we carried on for another 45 mins for our campsite in a more sheltered location and once again our porters had done us proud pitching our tent on possibly the flattest area within the site!

The fog that had been a persistent feature of the day began to clear shortly before dinner and there was a brief moment when we were treated to a spectacular “double ended” rainbow.

 One rainbow, two ends and not a pot of gold in sight!

It may be the drop in temperature and I’m sure the “forced” slouch of the camping chairs hasn’t helped but my back has felt a little tight today (I’m absolutely certain it’s nothing to do with carting that rock up Little Lent yesterday).

However despite having felt a little “woolly” at times today my head is now clear and my legs are feeling strong which is great because by the end of tomorrow we will have finished our traverse and gearing up for our attempt on the summit. 

 The undoubted star of the day, Emma still going after her run in with AMS

and even managing the occassional smile!